Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
